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Belonging to the group known as the Society Islands, "Tahiti
and her islands" is the affectionate phrase used to describe this part of the
South Pacific. Geographically isolated from the rest of the world, it is the
remoteness of these islands that is especially appealing. The volcanic island of
Tahiti, comprised of Tahiti Nui (big Tahiti) and Tahiti Iti (small Tahiti), is
the largest and most populous of the group’s 118 islands.
 The landscape of Mooréa creates a
staggeringly impressive backdrop for an anchorage. (Click image to enlarge)
We arrived at midnight into the capital city of Papeete on
Tahiti’s northwest coast on the maiden voyage of Air Tahiti Nui’s new direct
flight from New York City. Greeted by traditional dancers, drums and scented
leis, we were immediately transported to the colorful vibrancy of Polynesia (and
to our hotel).
 A little night music. (Click image to enlarge)
The following morning, our schedule allowed a little time to
explore Tahiti before flying onward to Huahine to join Charlatan, so we
went into town. We sniffed oils from the tiare flower at the market—more pungent
than a gardenia. Market tables littered with shell necklaces and piles of
colorful pareus were sold amongst mangoes and soursops.  Next stop: Huahine. Our captain—not James Cook, but another Brit 200-some
years younger, Captain Richard Cook—met us at the airport and escorted us by
taxi to the dock. From there, we tendered to Charlatan, who was
floating majestically in a cut between reefs. After crew introductions and a
refreshing swim, we set sail for the island of Taha’a. (Click image to enlarge)
Within hours, we dropped sail and motored by an enticing motu,
a small flat island with palm trees and some fishing boats offshore. Despite
signs admonishing us that it was a private island, we made a short, hesitant
foray ashore at the encouragement of the fishermen. Deserted that day, there
were signs of parties past.
 At Hotel Bora-Bora thatch-roofed villas
built out over the lagoon are the next best thing to being on a sailboat
anchored in the bay. (Click image to enlarge)
From the motu, we made our way up to Hameene Bay on the eastern
side of Taha’a. Jeni Tidmarsh, our Kiwi charter broker from Sail Connections
Limited, turned us on to Leo and Lolita’s Hibiscus Restaurant and Turtle
Sanctuary. Leo, a transplanted Frenchman, regaled us with stories and plied us
with punch before we retreated to the boat for the first of many splendid
Pan-Pacific dinners at the hand of our incredible chef, Clare Seagrave, from New
Zealand.
 Gone are the days of free diving for pearls in
random oyster shells. Baroque black pearls are cultivated on the
island of Taha’a. (Click image to enlarge)
We visited a pearl farm the next morning and discovered how
black pearls are cultivated. No wonder they are so expensive: They are a very
labor-intensive proposition. And the same goes for vanilla: At the vanilla
plantation on Taha’a, we learned that each flower must be pollinated by hand.
The harvest is a lengthy process, as vanilla pods must dry for a year! I have
new respect for vanilla extract.
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