Jill Bobrow
04/01/2006
What do Captain James Cook, Paul Gauguin, Marlon Brando, and musical duo Rodgers and Hammerstein all have in common?
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If you are humming a tune from the old Broadway musical
South
Pacific, you guessed right. The South Pacific is as
exotic today as it was when Captain Cook ventured there in 1768 on a journey of
exploration and science. One hundred and twenty years later, French artist Paul
Gauguin journeyed to the South Pacific for a different type of
exploration—finding himself. His life in Tahiti inspired some of his best and
most recognized works. Visuals of verdant volcanic islands ringed in barrier
reefs and honey-skinned women with waist-long hair wreathed in garlands are as
compelling today as they were then.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
Captain Richard Cook and Charlatan’s crew. (Click image to enlarge)
When filming Mutiny on the Bounty in 1962, the late Marlon
Brando also fell in love with the South Pacific and even bought a piece of
it—doesn’t everyone want an atoll in an archipelago? A renowned recluse, Brando
spent several months a year on his island, Tetiaroa.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
The flower of a vanilla plant is hand pollinated on
Taha’a. (Click image to enlarge)
Rodgers and Hammerstein…well, I don’t know if they ever stepped foot in this
part of the world, but their long-running hit musical South Pacific is based on the American GI outpost
in Bora-Bora during World War II. Bloody Mary’s, one of the island’s most
popular restaurants, is a tribute to a song from the show. Photographs, placards
and testimonials from the likes of Brad Pitt and Jimmy Buffett bear witness to
the fact that this joint is the Sardi’s of the South Pacific.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
Taking a breather from a bike ride around
Bora-Bora. (Click image to enlarge)
One way to join the ranks of Gauguin, Brando and Buffett is
to charter a yacht in the South Pacific and experience the good life for
yourself. Unlike the Caribbean, chartering here is a trifle tricky because there
aren’t many crewed luxury yachts available. There are a few mini-cruise ships
and a bunch of bare boats, but a sailing yacht of Charlatan’s caliber
is an anomaly in these waters. This 110-foot (33.5-meter) yacht has a superb
pedigree: Built by the renowned Alloy Yachts in New Zealand, she was designed by
Ron Holland for sheer sailing performance. At the same time, she boasts an
outstanding teak interior by Redman Whiteley Dixon. The main salon is stately
and elegant, but in the South Pacific, you will live in the cockpit and on
deck—and a fine deck it is.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
The market in Papeete, Tahiti, is filled with bright
pareus, exotic oils and fresh produce. (Click image to enlarge)
The pilothouse, main salon and dining area are beautiful but
best saved for a rainy day. When it comes time to sleep, the three cabins
include an excellent king-size master suite with two bathrooms and an aft
stairway to a private cockpit. In this owner’s cockpit, the curved settee and
coffee table can be transformed into a large, comfy lounging bed, perfect for
stargazing. Two additional guest suites, one with a double bed and one with
twins that can be converted into a double, each have ensuite marble bathrooms
and are equally as comfortable.
The expansive flush teak decks with a center cockpit and low
profile complete the "proper yacht" aesthetic. A true sailing yacht,
Charlatan was made for Tahiti.Belonging to the group known as the Society Islands, "Tahiti
and her islands" is the affectionate phrase used to describe this part of the
South Pacific. Geographically isolated from the rest of the world, it is the
remoteness of these islands that is especially appealing. The volcanic island of
Tahiti, comprised of Tahiti Nui (big Tahiti) and Tahiti Iti (small Tahiti), is
the largest and most populous of the group’s 118 islands.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
The landscape of Mooréa creates a
staggeringly impressive backdrop for an anchorage. (Click image to enlarge)
We arrived at midnight into the capital city of Papeete on
Tahiti’s northwest coast on the maiden voyage of Air Tahiti Nui’s new direct
flight from New York City. Greeted by traditional dancers, drums and scented
leis, we were immediately transported to the colorful vibrancy of Polynesia (and
to our hotel).; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
A little night music. (Click image to enlarge)
The following morning, our schedule allowed a little time to
explore Tahiti before flying onward to Huahine to join Charlatan, so we
went into town. We sniffed oils from the tiare flower at the market—more pungent
than a gardenia. Market tables littered with shell necklaces and piles of
colorful pareus were sold amongst mangoes and soursops.
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Next stop: Huahine. Our captain—not James Cook, but another Brit 200-some
years younger, Captain Richard Cook—met us at the airport and escorted us by
taxi to the dock. From there, we tendered to Charlatan, who was
floating majestically in a cut between reefs. After crew introductions and a
refreshing swim, we set sail for the island of Taha’a. (Click image to enlarge)
Within hours, we dropped sail and motored by an enticing motu,
a small flat island with palm trees and some fishing boats offshore. Despite
signs admonishing us that it was a private island, we made a short, hesitant
foray ashore at the encouragement of the fishermen. Deserted that day, there
were signs of parties past.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
At Hotel Bora-Bora thatch-roofed villas
built out over the lagoon are the next best thing to being on a sailboat
anchored in the bay. (Click image to enlarge)
From the motu, we made our way up to Hameene Bay on the eastern
side of Taha’a. Jeni Tidmarsh, our Kiwi charter broker from Sail Connections
Limited, turned us on to Leo and Lolita’s Hibiscus Restaurant and Turtle
Sanctuary. Leo, a transplanted Frenchman, regaled us with stories and plied us
with punch before we retreated to the boat for the first of many splendid
Pan-Pacific dinners at the hand of our incredible chef, Clare Seagrave, from New
Zealand.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
Gone are the days of free diving for pearls in
random oyster shells. Baroque black pearls are cultivated on the
island of Taha’a. (Click image to enlarge)
We visited a pearl farm the next morning and discovered how
black pearls are cultivated. No wonder they are so expensive: They are a very
labor-intensive proposition. And the same goes for vanilla: At the vanilla
plantation on Taha’a, we learned that each flower must be pollinated by hand.
The harvest is a lengthy process, as vanilla pods must dry for a year! I have
new respect for vanilla extract.Later that day, Charlatan motored to the other side of Taha’a,
where we anchored near the Relais & Chateaux Le Taha’a Private Island &
Spa, a five-star resort with exquisite thatch-roofed villas built on stilts
straddling the lagoon. It was a slightly misty rainy day, which made the lush
volcanic island appear all the more mysterious.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
The vibrancy of the Polynesian personality comes
alive with music and dance in Vaitape, Bora-Bora. (Click image to enlarge)
We took part in a shellfish sampler extravaganza that night at
local restaurant Chez Louise. Our gregarious and loquacious hostess joined our
table and created an instant party. Island punches were poured liberally, and
food was served home style. After our meal, the detritus from our plates was
recycled back into the sea as we watched the puff fish gather around under
the deck of the restaurant.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
A steeple stands out in the glorious green
backdrop of Taha’a. (Click image to enlarge)
The next stop was the island of Raiatea, where we anchored in
the harbor and took a tender to a busy commercial town. Traffic there was more
local than touristy. We wandered into local shops while our chef and stewardess
hunted down some provisions and local produce for our fruit-laden breakfasts.
Black pearls are sold everywhere, in the produce markets, postcard shops and
clothing stores. Here, we did not find the fancy jewelry shops there that we
found in Tahiti. Prices varied vastly, depending on the quality of the pearl.
Top photo: Unlike so many places in the Caribbean, the reefs
here are rife with colorful fish. The barrier reefs throughout the Society Islands are splendid! Bottom photo: Breakfast gets delivered by proa express in Mooréa—beats running to
Starbuck’s. (Click images to enlarge) ; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
Raiatea was merely a day stop as we set sail for the most
famous island of them all, the legendary Bora-Bora. Charlatan was in her
element; good winds enabled us to push 12 knots. We sailed through to a cut
inside the barrier reef. The colors of the water there are phenomenal—better
than the Bahamas…or maybe it is the juxtaposition of the water next to the
dramatic mountainous island that makes it all seem so perfect. Safely tucked in
protected waters of Povai Bay, we went snorkeling. Multicolored fish were
plentiful.
We spent the next couple of days visiting the town of Vaitape, going for a
day sail, taking a helicopter tour, eating Clare’s world-class meals, waterskiing and swimming. Charlatan had to
leave to pick up a honeymoon couple, but we stayed on at the lovely Aman Resort,
Hotel Bora-Bora. Thatch-roofed cottages by the sea were nice, but we missed the
camaraderie of Charlatan’s crew. We decided to strengthen our
sea legs and circumnavigate Bora-Bora by bicycle—a nice languid way to stop and
have a snack, and shop for pareus and pearls. The terrain is too rugged and
mountainous for many inland roads. Hiking is possible, but is best in the early
morning, before the sun gets overhead.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
As powerful as the rig looked, the captain encouraged us to take
turns at the helm. Then we just sat back and made sure the sails were set just
right. (Click image to enlarge)
Next we flew to Mooréa, a true Shangri-la. Perhaps less of a
tourist island than Bora-Bora, we got a sense that people do live here rather
than merely vacation here. We hiked with a picnic lunch to a glorious inland
waterfall and rewarded ourselves with a cool shower at the base of the fall
itself. We also visited a pineapple plantation and tasted the best
fresh-squeezed pineapple juice. Recognizing the Perini Navi sailboat
Morning
Glory in the bay, we wished we were back aboard
Charlatan.
There is nothing more luxurious than staying aboard a great yacht for a
week’s vacation. Tahiti and her islands have their fair share of five-star
resorts with all the amenities, but they do not move. Aboard Charlatan, we had
the best of all worlds—superb location and landscape with the sailing and
service of Captain Cook and his crew. It’s easy to understand why our
captain and his namesake predecessor chose to sail these waters; why Gauguin
chose to paint it; and why Rodgers and Hammerstein immortalized it in song. We
will sing Tahiti’s praises for years to come.
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| Yacht Name: | Charlatan |
| Yacht Type: | Sail Yacht |
| Builder: | Alloy |
| Draft: | 11' 2" (3.40m) |
| LOA (Actual length): | 110' (33.53m) |
| LWL (Length of water line): | 88' 7" (27.00m) |
| Displacement: | 118 tons |
| Beam: | 25' (7.62m) |
| Sail Area: | 6,675 sq ft (620.13 sq m) |