Landfall: Pure Polynesia
Alfred H. Balm
06/01/2005

The sunlight reflected from her cinnamon-colored skin, a Gauguin painting come to life. In the bow of the canoe she sat motionless, almost serene, staring at the island we were approaching. She was dressed in colorful Tahitian cotton, flowers artistically woven into a halo crowning her long black hair.

The girl respectfully navigated the canoe through the coral beds, moving us toward a white sandy beach. We could see people on the shore, several families apparently, also wearing traditional colors and flowers in their hair. Children started running toward us, but Grandma intercepted them. Then a melodious chant reached us across the water, a sound as old as the world. The song was repeated several times, while bodies swayed with the rhythm and flowers were scattered onto the water. It sounded like: Ua koakoa ma’ua, ua ite tatou I te ihepe. The girl translated, "We are pleased; we saw the ship. (Click image to enlarge)

"It’s a welcome to you," she continued. Standing in the bow spreading both arms to the island and the welcoming party, she answered the invitation with a chant of her own. The formalities over, we waded ashore and received a flowery reception, with kisses and smiles all around, as if a long-lost family member had returned home.

The tiny island was Motu Moea, an islet off Moorea in French Polynesia. Our 155-foot Christensen motor yacht, Silver Lining, was anchored in Moorea’s Opunohu Bay on the spot where The Bounty was filmed. From our anchorage we had a magnificent view of the mountains encircling the bay. Palm trees lining the beaches provided shade for the few Polynesian-style dwellings. Around our boat, tropical fish as colorful as the coral reef they inhabited could be seen through crystal-clear emerald water at least 30 feet deep.
 

Silver Lining (top), dropped her hook in Opunohu Bay (Bottom). A favorite of Captain Cook, the sheltered bay is one of two on Moorea’s north coast with secure yacht anchorages. Bottom photograph by Neil Rabinowitz. (Click images to enlarge)

On the beach, two men started playing guitar and ukulele, while under the palm trees a table was set. Next to it stood a cornucopia of sun-ripened tropical fruits and strings of fresh, colorful fish. And next to the rum cocktail-filled coconuts topped with hibiscus flowers, I was pleased to spot a cold beer.

We were soon introduced to Jean-Pierre Aubourg and Maire Maiau, who seemed to own the island. As we would find out later, they deserve our respect and support for almost single-handedly creating a natural park on the land and in the lagoons surrounding their property, Maiau Beach Garden, keeping non-native products at bay and preserving the species and coral reefs with great care and effort.

But now a delicate scent reached our hungry group. A bit farther inland, closer to the one and only charming Polynesian building on the island, smoke was spiraling upward from a hole in the ground covered by banana leaves and sacks, the traditional Polynesian earth oven in which a pig was roasted, together with chicken and delicious sweet potatoes. We were invited to this tamaara’a and would experience the traditional hospitality and savor the umara fafa, fe’i and taro. One can only wonder why, with the French influence here, this exquisite cuisine was never honored with some Michelin stars.
The barbecued fish was a delicacy and soon consumed. Two young men with traditional tattoos all over their bodies approached the water, sang a short prayer to ask permission from the gods to take some fish, and soon their catch filled our plates. We finished our feast with sweet banana poe served hot and smothered in coconut milk and sugar.

Top: Dancers perform on Silver Lining’s aft deck. (Click images to enlarge)

We enjoyed more music and conversation with these people living so close to nature, respecting and maintaining old traditions, and yet so well educated and conscious of the necessity to protect our environment and conserve the reefs.

Back on board after a much-needed siesta, we heard the birds stop singing as day gave way to another starry night. Fishing boats in the bay lit gas lamps to attract their prey. In the dark distance a torch became visible, reflecting a fiery glare in the water, then another and another....Now drums could be heard and the mysterious sound of a conch shell howling across the water like some scary sea creature. Sound and light moved closer, and six canoes appeared from the dark, drums pulsing, voices chanting and grass skirt- and coconut bra-clad girls dancing seductively, moving according to century-old patterns: a ghostly fleet from the days of Captain Cook.

Two motus (Tahitian for islet) lie within Moorea’s fringing reef on her northwest corner. Maire and Jean-Pierre’s Motu Moea is the smaller, more eastern of the two. Guests from Silver Lining visited it by canoe from Opunohu Bay. (Click image to enlarge)

They accepted our invitation to come aboard where our chef, JJ Coaton, in conspiracy with Maire, had prepared another marvelous buffet. Then we were presented with a show worthy of a world tour.

Torches glowed in the semidarkness on our aft deck, while women, young and mature, and tattooed men built like Adonises (according to my wife, Phyllis) swirled to choreography written by the gods themselves. Every delicate movement was explained to us, but this display had little to do with tourism. Men and women performed as much for each other as for the visitors from afar. They absorbed us in their hypnotic dances, tirelessly moving faster and faster. (Click image to enlarge)

It was long past midnight when the dancing stopped and their voices came together in an emotional song that we were told was a prayer. It echoed across the water like a call to the gods of their forefathers. To us, dreamers and adventure seekers, it was a rare gift from an unspoiled culture living true to its rich history.

To arrange for a special excursion or private guide, contact Maire and Jean-Pierre at Maiau Beach Garden at 689 707858 or info@maiaubeachcom. For more information about Moorea, visit www.gomoorea.com.