We tendered ashore to see the iguanas that populate the island.
Prehistoric-looking creatures, they seemed fond of tomatoes and fingertips. We
had a full day and were ready for dinner. Rather than pig, iguana or fish, we
dined on tapenade-encrusted lamb and ratatouille followed by bananas tatin and
homemade rum raisin ice cream. Anchored peacefully under the stars and miles
from the nearest nightlife, we acquiesced to the girls’ desire to cozy up in the
den and watch a DVD from the well-stocked library.
Top: Happy at the helm. Bottom: A solitary starfish. (Click images to enlarge)
On day three we had breakfast under way. Captain David and
first mate Dean set the fishing lines as we went through Lumber Cay Cut and
headed south in the Exuma Sound. Israeli deckhand Ofer, always game, engaged the
girls with nautical knot tying. We heard the whir of the line and, sure enough,
in short order we caught a Spanish mackerel. There are few things more
satisfying than fresh-caught fish, a perk you expect while on charter, but one
that the sea gods do not always provide. Fiona made sure we sampled the mackerel
three ways: au naturel as sashimi, marinated in lime juice and peppers as
ceviche, and grilled to perfection with lemon and olive oil. Absolutely
succulent, it was perfectly complemented by char-grilled vegetables and roasted
portobello mushrooms with Gorgonzola and pancetta and a light green salad.
We navigated what seemed like an impossible cut and anchored in
a strong current off Big Farmer’s Cay. Exposed sandbars made me a little
nervous, but with a cool captain and a bow watch, navigating them was not a
problem for Tenacious. Ever the one for going fast, Sabrina enjoyed the
dragon biscuit toy attached to the tender that yanked and jerked her around at
high speed.
When we left Farmer’s Cay, we motored through Adderley Cut to
get to Norman’s Pond Cay. The anchorage was pristine. A private little beach
provided the perfect platform for shelling and diving for sand dollars. We were
amazed at how many we found. They are so beautiful, yet so ephemeral and hard to
collect without breaking. We managed to preserve some in a plastic container for
the trip home.
That night we were treated to a lunar eclipse. It also happened
to be first mate Dean’s birthday. We invited him and the whole crew to have a
celebration on the foredeck. The temperature and lack of wind made for a lovely
night dining on the main deck.
Top: Sabrina snorkels with the
sharks. Bottom: Marcus demonstrates conch extraction. (Click images to enlarge)
The next morning we summoned "Papa Tango" to meet us at our
anchorage. It was thrilling to see the plane land effortlessly next to the
boat and anchor just a few feet away. With a picnic hamper and snorkeling gear,
we hopped in the plane in our bathing suits and flew south, gliding just 500
feet above the water. We stopped at the southern tip of the Exumas by Hog
Cay, where we disembarked and waded over to an isolated sandbar, a dreamy place
of pure, creamy, fine white sand. With the plane anchored, we played in the
water. It was uncanny how many starfish and conch were there for the picking.
One can hardly claim this region as uncharted territory, but
without a seaplane you wouldn’t find this stretch of heaven. After collecting
piles of conch and stashing them in the pontoon locker, we took off and flew low
over George Town, spotting more nurse sharks and manta rays. We chose a
beautiful beach at Pigeon Cay to once again anchor the plane. We went ashore for
a deluxe picnic packed by Fiona. Later we flew back to the boat over Norman’s
Pond Cay and its old salt works. Marcus gave Ofer and captain David a lesson in
extracting conch from the shell, which is no easy task. With strong winds
predicted, Tenacious transited to a protected anchorage in Elizabeth
Harbor off George Town. Once again Fiona prepared our fresh-caught conch every
which way: in a panko batter, a tempura-style cracked conch; as a limey, peppery
conch martini; and, of course, as conch fritters.
 As Tenacious lies at anchor off Big Farmer’s Cay,
her masthead provides a bird’s-eye view of fun in the donut. (Click image to enlarge)
We left our idyll of boat life and went ashore to the
metropolis of George Town. The pink-painted Peace and Plenty hotel is a central
meeting place. We investigated elaborate plans for a marina development on Crab
Cay, and then we went to check out the new villa and marina development at
February Point. George Town is about to boom as more and more people discover
the Exumas.
After our shore foray, we went for an afternoon sail, picking our way through
some tight gaps in the reefs, Sabrina at the helm. Once anchored, we planned a
trip to see the ruins at Man-O-War Cay, but were driven back by a rainsquall.
This gave us the opportunity to eat in the formal dining room below. Until now
we had always eaten on deck, so it made for an interesting change of scenery.
Roasted quail wrapped in prosciutto and stuffed with mushrooms on a bed of
collard greens was a dressy meal for a formal last supper.
FACT FILE
For more charter info, contact Anita Dodds, charter fleet
manager at Fraser Yachts Worldwide tel: 954-712-7118 e-mail: anita.dodds@fraseryachts.com www.fraseryachts.com
WINTER 2007/2008 OPERATING
Area: Bahamas, Caribbean
Rate details: Options for booking
the yacht and/or the yacht and seaplane.
Option 1—Yacht only. $55,000 per
week, plus expenses.
Option 2—Yacht and seaplane
transfers. $58,000 per week,
plus expenses. Includes travel to and from the
yacht in the seaplane
(for example: travel from Fort Lauderdale to the
Exumas, Bahamas).
Option 3—Yacht, seaplane transfer and
seaplane excursion during the charter. $62,000 per week, plus expenses.
Includes travel to and from the boat in the seaplane (for example: travel
from Fort Lauderdale to the Exumas, Bahamas) and use of the seaplane for one day’s excursion (sightseeing over the Bahamas, stop for a picnic
lunch, swimming and snorkeling before flying back to the boat;
approximately four hours of flying).
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