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You’re lounging on the deck of your charter yacht in the midday
Caribbean sun after a sumptuous four-star lunch. You’re not sure whether
it’s too much food or too much wine—probably the latter—but you just can’t keep
your eyes open. Your body craves a nap, but you want to play and explore ashore.
You concede to sleep and drift off until cocktail hour, your afternoon shot.
Coming up with a good wine for daytime sipping seems
straightforward enough: Pick something light, like a sauvignon blanc or a French
rosé—perhaps a Pinot Noir. But in today’s world, it’s not that easy. American
demand has driven up the alcohol content of wines, to the point where even those
"lighter" styles top 12 percent. By the end of a day, they can start to weigh
you down.
The challenge then is finding well-made, balanced wines that
fall below that benchmark; wines that may be less complicated, but are still
interesting and compatible with food. One of the best places to look is Germany
and its elegant Rieslings. A versatile food wine, Riesling makes nice with
dishes as diverse as shrimp salad or a French onion tart. It also handles
spicier flavors, like mild Thai curry.
Familiar names like Noble House or RK (Reichsgraf von
Kesselstatt) are reliable sweet-crisp refreshers that come in at about 10
percent alcohol. But a good indicator of a great find is Terry Theise’s name on
the back label. The importer’s passion for Riesling is legendary.
Many are surprised to find that the French are as obsessive
about their apples as their grapes and that they produce world-class ciders,
often with varietal distinctions. Clean, crisp and lightly effervescent, these
come in around five percent alcohol. Whatever goes with apples—cheese, bacon,
foie gras—is even better with a good cider. Another low-alcohol frizzante
option is Italy’s Moscato d’Asti.
Lower-alcohol reds are more problematic, although Germany,
Austria and France’s Loire valley produce a few.
For something a bit more sophisticated, don’t overlook
well-aged bordeaux, which some experts believe lose just a bit of their alcohol
over time. Older Rieslings—the varietal was originally bottled to age—also
develop beguiling complexity and richness.
Archipel Rosé 2005 (12.5 percent alcohol): This
Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon blend gives you berries, cherries
and some floral notes. Refreshing chilled with a bite of baguette and prosciutto
or fresh oysters.
Gray Monk Pinot Blanc 2003 (11.5 percent alcohol): Hay and honeycomb, with a burst of
minerality and bitter and sweet interplay. From Okanagan Valley, Canada’s
Napa. Winning with eggs Benedict.
Leitz "Dragonstone" Riesling 2005
(8.5 percent alcohol):
A Terry Theise selection. Crisp, flinty
green-pear nose; blossoms into fruit. Savor with cheeses like Mimolette, Cantal
or highly sought-after Upland Pleasant Ridge Reserve.
Mionetto "MO" Sergio Rose NV
(11 percent alcohol):
Fresh, plumy, Italian metodo classico Prosecco. Hits it off with polenta and Italian sausage.
Organic Etienne Dupont Cidre Bouché Brut de Normandie 2005 (4.5 percent
alcohol): Smells
like freshly cut apples, yet it’s surprisingly dry. Effervescent. Can’t miss
with pâté de fois gras.
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